"I found a baby wild animal! Now what?"

by Dr. Heidi Hallett

Spring is a time when young wildlife species are more commonly encountered.  Sometimes, a young animal may appear injured, abandoned, or in need of help.  The following discussion may help determine the best course of action to follow.  Most of the young animals found in the wild are not abandoned, but if a wild animal is injured, sick, or orphaned, steps should be taken to contact the DNR (WI Dept. of Natural Resources) or a licensed wildlife rehabilitator.  Contact information appears at the end of this article.  Wildlife rehabilitators are licensed individuals trained and equipped to provide temporary care and treatment to injured, sick, and orphaned wild animals for the purpose of release back into the wild. Rehabilitating wildlife without a license is against the law in Wisconsin.  If it’s necessary to help an injured or orphaned wild animal, a non-licensed person may have the animal in their possession for up to 24 hours in order to transport the animal to a licensed wildlife rehabilitator.  In Wisconsin, skunks cannot be rehabilitated nor can deer in any county within a 10 mile radius of a known CWD (Chronic Wasting Disease) positive deer, either captive or wild.  Deer rehabilitation has been banned in Waukesha County for 2013.
 
General Instructions: ​If transporting orphaned or injured wildlife to a licensed rehabilitator, place the animal inside a ventilated container in a dark, warm and quiet place away from human disturbances.  A cardboard box punched with small ventilation holes and lined with a ravel-free material works well.   Due to the risk of being bitten or scratched and possible disease exposure, try to avoid handling the animal directly, even with gloves. It is recommended to scoop the animal into its travelling container if possible. Wash hands thoroughly with soap and water after coming into close contact with wildlife. Try to minimize stress to the wild animal as much as possible.  Avoid direct eye contact with wildlife, since most animals see eye contact as a threatening or challenging gesture. It is also recommended not to provide food or water to the wild animal.  The wildlife rehabilitator will provide the correct nutrition needed.

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To help determine if a young, wild animal is orphaned, the following normal development guidelines and behaviors can be used as reference.

Grey Squirrels:  Squirrels nest in trees by using a tree cavity or building a nest out of leaves.  Mothers will retrieve their young if they fall out of the nest.  Newborn grey squirrels are about the size of a human thumb.  Their eyes open at about 4 weeks of age, and they begin to explore outside the nest area.  They are weaned at 8 weeks old, but cannot survive on their own until at least 12 weeks old.  Squirrels with bushy tails that are approximately half the size of an adult are old enough to be on their own.  Grey squirrels can have multiple litters each year, so baby animals can be seen any time from spring through fall.

​If a young squirrel is found with its eyes still sealed shut, it has probably fallen from its nest.  If it’s uninjured but can’t be safely placed back in its nest, put the squirrel on a soft, ravel-free cloth at the base of the tree with the nest.  There is a good chance the mother will return it to the nest herself.  Observe from indoors or from a distance, and if the mother hasn’t retrieved the baby after an hour or so, call a local wildlife rehabilitator.

Bunnies in HVH yard

Cotton-tail Rabbits:  Rabbits commonly make shallow fur or grass-lined nests in the ground.  Mothers only feed their young at dawn and dusk and won’t stay at the nest during the day.  The babies’ eyes open at 1 week and they leave the nest at 2-3 weeks of age.  A cotton-tail rabbit approximately the size of a softball (4-5 inches long) with upward pointed ears is capable of being on its own and should be left alone.  Rabbits can have multiple litters each year, so baby animals may be seen anytime from spring through fall.

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If a nest is disturbed by a pet, child, or because of lawn work, the nest can be rebuilt and the babies replaced, and the mother will most likely return.  To determine if the nest is abandoned, place leaves or grasses in a crisscross pattern over the nest and check it the following morning.  If the pattern has been disturbed, then the mother has been there to feed the babies.

Raccoons:  A raccoon will nest in tree cavities, caves, brush piles, rock crevices, and buildings.  Mothers will retrieve their young if they fall out or wander away from the nest.  Litters consist of 2-6 babies, and their eyes begin to open at ~3 weeks of age, and teeth begin to erupt at 4 weeks of age.  At 4-6 weeks, raccoon kits are capable of walking, climbing, and running, and may begin to explore alternate den sites with their mother.  Weaning occurs at 8-12 weeks, but the kits remain with their mother until the following spring.

​If young kits are wandering alone outside of the den before the age of 4-6 weeks, it is usually an indication that the mother has been gone for several days, (ie, trapped or dead), and a wildlife rehabilitator should be contacted.  If healthy raccoon kits are found outside of their den, they can be placed in a ventilated box at the den entrance overnight for the mother to retrieve.  If the babies are still there the next morning, contact a wildlife rehabilitator.

White-tailed Deer:  Newborn deer can be as small as 3 pounds.  Very young fawns are weak, can’t walk well, and lack the strength to follow their mother as she feeds.  Fawns are protected from predators by their coloration and lack of body odor.  The mother only comes to feed the fawn every few hours, and nursing is accomplished quickly.

​Do not touch the fawn or bring children, pets, or friends to look at it because that endangers the fawn. Human scent can lead a predator right to the well-hidden fawn.  If a fawn is in obvious danger, such as in the middle of the road, use gloves to pick up the fawn and move it about 50 feet off the road.  The mother deer will find the fawn.  Due to Chronic Wasting Disease concerns, wildlife rehabilitators currently are not allowed to provide care for orphaned fawns in most of southern Wisconsin, so it is very important that people protect the babies by leaving them alone to be raised by their mothers.

Songbirds:  Songbirds lay a clutch of eggs in a nest, and young birds are usually tended by both parents. Once the eggs have hatched, the featherless “nestlings” remain in the nest for some time completely dependent on the parents for warmth and food.  Baby songbirds leave the nest just prior to the full development of their feathers and so cannot fly for several days to a week.  During this time, they are called “fledglings” and hop around on the ground building their strength and coordination under the watch of their parents.

​If a fledgling is found, keep predators such as dogs and cats away and watch from a distance to see if the parents are still tending to it.  If the parents do not return within an hour, contact a wildlife rehabilitator.  If an uninjured bird is found in the grass, and it is featherless or unable to hop from one spot, it needs to be replaced in its nest if possible.  It is a common misconception that parents won’t return to care for a baby bird if humans have touched it.  Birds actually have a poorly developed sense of smell.  If the nest can’t be reached, call a wildlife rehabilitator for advice.

Mallard Ducks:  Mallards lay approximately 6-14 cream to greenish-buff colored eggs in a nest typically concealed in wetland grasses or by bodies of water.  The hen will not sit on her nest until all of the eggs have been laid.  Once she starts to incubate the nest, the babies will hatch in approximately 23-29 days.  Mallard ducklings are born with their eyes open and a covering of downy feathers, but depend on the mother for warmth and protection from predators.  The mother will lead them from their nest to water when they are about 24 hours old.

​If the nest is in a dangerous place or if there is concern about the hen getting the ducklings safely to water, call a wildlife rehabilitator for advice.  It is not uncommon for a duckling to get separated temporarily from its family.  If a duckling is found alone, look and listen for any signs that the mother and siblings are in the area. If the family is not nearby or won’t accept the duckling within an hour, do not try to place the orphaned duckling with another family in the wild.  The orphan will need to be placed in the care of a wildlife rehabilitator.

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Contact information for licensed area wildlife rehabilitators (WI DNR website): Waukesha County:

Name	Address	Contact	Species
Wildlife in Need Center	W349 S1480 S Waterville Rd. Suite B, Oconomowoc	262-965-3090  website	All, except deer, skunks, and bats.
Susan Verden	Oconomowoc	262-965-4335 arakun@earthlink.net	Opossum, rodent/rabbit, small carnivore, raccoon, reptile, amphibian
Susan Saliga		website	Squirrel
Humane Animal Welfare Society	701 Northview Rd., Waukesha	262-542-8851 ext. 108  mark@hawspets.org	All, except deer, skunks, seabirds, and eagles
Nancy Meier	S41 W33855 Hidden Valley Dr., Dousman	262-392-9309 possums@live.com bunniesrus@hotmail.com	Opossum, rodent/rabbit

Sources:  WI DNR website: dnr.wi.gov/topic/wildlifehabitat/wildlifehealth.html

​    Wildlife in Need Center, 262-965-3090

What is a Cat Friendly Practice?

Hallett Veterinary Hospital Recognized as Cat Friendly Practice

Cats are quickly becoming the most popular pet in America, with more than 86 million cats loved as pets, compared to 78 million dogs.  With the number of people choosing cats steadily increasing, the American Association of Feline Practitioners (AAFP) has initiated a program to improve the health care and overall well-being of the growing feline population.  

A Cat Friendly Practice (CFP) is committed to learning ways to make the visit more pleasant for your cats and to help you learn ways that you can contribute also. 

A Cat Friendly Practice has adapted an environment that is less stressful to cats and meets the cat’s unique needs.  The staff at the practice is aware of ways they can interact and handle your cat so that examinations and procedures will be less stressful.  A Cat Friendly Practice also values your contribution to your cat’s healthcare plan and will make every effort to help you understand your cat’s needs and help you learn what you can do at home to ensure that they get the care they need.  Hallett Veterinary Hospital is proud to announce that it is recognized by the AAFP as a Cat Friendly Practice.

Why Cat Friendly?

​“There is a tremendous recognition that while cats are the largest percentage of companion animals in homes, their wellness visits and other types of veterinary care are much lower than for dogs,” said Dr. Elizabeth J Colleran, AAFP Past-president.  The association pioneered the Cat Friendly Practice program to provide a framework for creating a positive practice environment for cats, including medical care that supports the cat’s unique needs, and knowledgeable staff members who understand feline friendly handling.  The Cat Friendly Practice program was created to improve the treatment, handling, and overall healthcare of cats.  Its purpose is to equip veterinary practices with the tools, resources, and information to elevate the standard of care for cats.

​“We are committed to providing quality care to our patients.  When we heard about AAFP’s Cat Friendly Practice Program, we knew it was time to take a fresh look at our practice to determine what could be done to make the veterinary visit more positive for cats and cat owners,” said Kelly Lemke, CVT and Cat Advocate at Hallett Veterinary Hospital.  “We evaluated every aspect of the practice and its environment from the perspective of the cat.  We can proudly say that from the minute they walk through the door, our patients and clients will be part of a welcoming, comfortable experience that will ultimately lead to the improved health of our feline patients.  

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Top 10 Reasons To Keep Your Cat Indoors

by Dr. Michael Fagan

10.  Cars.  Self explanatory.  I see a road-killed cat between home and work at least monthly.

9.    Coyotes.  They like to eat cats. (We have a patient who was rescued from a coyote's mouth!)

8.    Owls.  Seriously, you wouldn’t believe the damage an owl or other raptor can do even if it misses. (We treated a dog with wounds from an owl attack!)

7.    Worms.  Your cat can bring home parasites that can infect your kids.

6.    Birds and other small wildlife.  Cats in the US kill 1.4–3.7 billion birds a year, 7-20 billion mammals, as well as snakes, lizards, frogs, etc.

5.    Other large wildlife.  Raccoons and foxes can transmit rabies and raccoon poop can carry dangerous parasite eggs.  Oh, and they have sharp teeth, too.

4.    Other cats.  Cat fights can cause abscesses and eye injuries, and can transmit Feline Leukemia or Feline Immunodeficiency Virus, for which there is no cure.

3.    Toxoplasma.  Cat poop in the garden is the largest source of human exposure to this microscopic parasite.  Bonus item if you live near the ocean:  toxoplasma from cats washes into the ocean and infects sea lions with catastrophic effects.

2.    Tiny little bugs.  Indoor cats almost never get fleas or ticks.  Almost.

1.    Life!  Outdoor cats have an average life expectancy of about 4 years.  Indoor cats average well into their teen years.  

"How do my dog's teeth look, Doc?"

So, you think we can just look at a tooth
and tell how much disease is present? 

Take a look at the adjacent photos. At first blush, the teeth look pretty healthy. But, when we probed further and performed radiographs, we found some pretty significant disease and two teeth had to be extracted. This illustrates something really important:  we can’t simply look at a tooth and know how diseased it is. We need to probe around the tooth and perform radiographs to look at the bone that supports the tooth in the mouth to determine if periodontal disease is present and to determine whether or not a tooth can be saved. That is why we need anesthesia. And, that is why radiographs are so important in treating many of our patients effectively when it comes to dental disease. We still get surprised at the amount of disease we can’t see just by looking. Just last week, Dr. John scheduled a “routine” dental cleaning but got some big surprises when he did the complete oral exam under anesthesia and even more surprises when he finished full mouth radiographs. He called the owners with the treatment plan and proceeded to extract one abscessed tooth and treat several other roots with an antibiotic gel to stop the disease process.  

One other thing:  Remember that gingival sulcus?  

When disease starts happening here, things start to get serious; without appropriate treatment by a veterinarian, irreversible damage can occur. The reason I bring it up AGAIN, is because I want to address hand scaling. I frequently hear people say that their dog’s teeth were hand scaled the last time they saw the groomer, or that they scale their pet’s teeth at home. Or, people ask why we need to anesthetize an animal to perform a cleaning. When an animal is awake, it *may* be doable to remove buildup from the visible part of the tooth, but it is impossible to clean effectively below the gum; this just doesn’t address the problem because disease is happening BELOW the gum, not on the tooth surface. The teeth may look pretty after they have been hand scaled, but the real problem is being ignored. It reminds me of cleaning my room growing up. It was easy to hide stuff under the bed or in drawers and the room looked good, but it was still a mess. Notice also that I said hand scaling *may* be doable. I say *may* because calculus is so hard to break up that sharp instruments and an ultrasonic scaler really are the only effective means of doing so. Here’s what the American Veterinary Dental College has to say about why we shouldn't hand scale teeth on an awake pet (link). Besides, polishing the teeth after scaling is an important part of our dental procedure because it leaves a smooth surface; plaque and calculus has a harder time developing on a smooth surface.  

A combination of home care and professional care by a trained veterinary professional will pay dividends: early identification of problems improves our chance of successfully treating your pet, saving teeth if possible and minimizing discomfort. Call our office (262-569-0801) to schedule a dental consultation. We’re so thrilled with the successes we’ve had. If you are concerned about anesthesia with your pet, check out this behind-the-scenes video on dentistry and anesthesia at our hospital.

Brush my pet's teeth? Hahahahahahah."

by Dr. Leyla Wirth

Think for a minute about how your teeth feel when you haven’t had a chance to brush them.  Pretty filmy, right?  Now think about what happens when teeth aren’t brushed for months or years.  Yikes!!  It makes me wonder how our pets must feel.  Many owners will laugh at us when we suggest brushing their pet’s teeth or are reluctant to do so, but it is so important that we actually made a video to show you how to get started (click here for video).  And not that we don’t want to see you, but regular brushing at home may mean fewer dental procedures over the course of your pet's life; not only does this decrease the need for general anesthesia, but it helps your pocket book, too.  So why is brushing so important?  Well, let’s take a look at what happens over time with your pet’s teeth. 

We’ll start with a little lesson in anatomy. 

We’ll keep it simple and there won’t be any quizzes.  But, understanding the structure of the tooth and surrounding tissue will help with understanding how dental disease develops in your pet’s mouth and why brushing is so important. Take a look at the picture to the right.  Take a good look at the gingival sulcus and the pulp canal.  We’ll come back to that.

Dental disease is progressive
Early stages of dental disease are reversible but if allowed to continue, permanent damage can occur and your pet’s overall health suffers.  The process starts out insidiously enough with that slimy film on the crown of the tooth.  The film, called plaque, is a mixture of bacteria and residue from the food your pet eats. Plaque can be removed with regular brushing of the teeth.  If the plaque isn’t removed with regular brushing, this film hardens into something called calculus.   Calculus is so hard that it cannot be removed with brushing.  As I’ll discuss below, calculus can lead to even bigger problems.  That’s why it’s so important to brush!  And... brush the teeth three times a week, not just when the dog is at the groomer.

Calculus (mineralized deposits on teeth)
Early on, calculus is found primarily on the exposed tooth surface – the part that you can see if you dare peek in your pet’s mouth.  But remember that gingival sulcus?  Calculus is like a magnet for more calculus and eventually the calculus expands and starts to creep under the gums into the sulcus.  This is when big problems happen.  Here, the bacteria in the hardened calculus infect the gums and cause inflammation. That’s called gingivitis.  Gingivitis is reversible but if left untreated, the infection and inflammation will spread to the tissues that support the tooth in the mouth.  This process is called periodontal disease.  Periodontal disease affects both the soft tissue and the bone that supports the tooth in the socket.  As periodontal disease advances, the bone around the tooth is destroyed, and the tooth loosens.  Ouch!!  Our goal is to catch problems early, when they are reversible.  By doing so, we can limit your pet’s discomfort and improve their quality of life.

Brushing your pet’s teeth is the single most effective means of preventing irreversible dental disease.  But, we all know how hard this can be.  So, what happens if dental disease is already present?  Stay tuned and next time we’ll talk about evaluating pets with dental disease and things we can do to help.